RS5F32V Transmission Switches
My transmission had been dripping fluid for a few months.
The seals seemed good, but I discovered leaking switches. I smeared sealant on
the rubber boots, but this helped only for a couple of months. The leaks turned
critical. The only real solution was to replace the switches.
Purchase the following parts:
|Reverse Lamp Switch
The following procedure takes two hours and can be done
alone. You will have to drain the transmission, so buy four fresh quarts of your
favorite gear oil, or empty the used oil into a clean pan for refill.
Is it worth saving $100 in labor? You be the judge.
Tools: ramps or jackstands; floor jack; 19mm
wrench; ratchets in 1/2", 3/8", and 1/4" sizes; sockets in 10mm,
19mm, and various other sizes; various flat-blade and Phillips screwdrivers;
large pliers; large drain pan; transmission funnel and hose; Loctite PST
sealant; wire cutters.
- Open the hood so you get some light from above.
- Remove the inner splash shield from the left wheelwell
using the ratchet and 10mm socket.
- Place the jack under the lower engine support and lift
the car a few inches.
- Drain the transmission fluid: place the oil pan under
the transmission, remove the fill plug using the 3/8" ratchet, then
remove the drain plug using the 1/2" ratchet. Install the drain plug,
then lightly screw in the fill plug.
- Lower the car, then put your car on ramps or jackstands
(I used Tru-Cut Ultra Ramps). DON'T let the car idle in neutral while you
aim the ramps. You don't want precious parts spinning in there without
- Reach up inside the left wheelwell above the
transmission and detach the couplers for the reverse lamp switch.
- Remove the mounted coupler and bracket using a ratchet
and 10mm socket. Cut the harness from the switch.
- Remove the coupler from the bracket using your
preferred tool and method of brute force. Remount the bracket.
- Remove the old reverse lamp switch using a 19mm wrench.
- Apply Loctite PST sealant to the threads of the new
reverse lamp switch, then install it with a 19mm open-end wrench, being
careful not to twist the cable.
- Mount the coupler on its bracket, then connect the
opposite coupler. Be sure the harness is secured under the stay.
- Install the splash shield.
- Remove the air cleaner, MAF sensor, intake duct, and
resonator using appropriate tools.
- Cut the harness from the old neutral switch, then
remove the switch using a 19mm wrench, or a ratchet and 19mm socket.
- Reach from above the transmission however you can and
detach the couplers. Bend the mounted coupler and its bracket upward. Yank
the coupler off the bracket using big pliers and brute force.
- Apply Loctite PST sealant to the threads of new neutral
switch, then install it with a 19mm open-end wrench, being careful not to
twist the cable. Run the cable up above the transmission.
- From above the car, mount the coupler on its bracket,
then connect the opposite coupler.
- While still under the car, take the opportunity to
inspect the lower drivetrain and undercarriage, including all seals, boots,
fasteners, and things that can shake loose.
- Install all of the intake components.
- Lower the car. Again, if moving off ramps, avoid
spinning in neutral.
- Remove the fill plug, and fill the transmission with
gear oil until some drips out of the fill hole. Install the fill plug.
- Close the hood and go for a drive! Check for leaks upon
Rick's SE-Rious Procedures
Original material is the creation of Rick
Zotz, 1999, 1998, 1997, and has been contributed to SE-R.net.