SR20DE Motor Mounts
Like several others on the SE-R Mailing Llist, my '92 SE-R
was groaning from the area around the front passenger footwell. The noise
occurred on heavy deceleration and suspension compression. For months, I thought
the front control arm bushings might be worn from the lowered stance of the
Eibach springs, until I re-installed the stock springs and the noise grew worse
and more frequent. It sounded like something was ready to break.
The engine rocked back and forth a lot, so I suspected the
rear motor mount (called 'rear insulator') was worn from the torque. It was
somewhat collapsed, so I replaced it. The groaning continued.
I went to the dealer to compare my right motor mount
(called 'front engine mounting', the expensive, fluid-filled one) to the one in
a new SE-R, and sure enough, mine was collapsed. I replaced it, and the groaning
vanished. A new right mount IS the cure. The left motor mount (called the 'rear
engine mounting') looked good, so I'll wait until it fails.
Purchase the following parts:
|Front Engine Mounting
(Right Motor Mount)
(Rear Motor Mount)
- Right Motor Mount
- This procedure requires about 45 minutes and can be
- Tools and supplies: hydraulic floor
jack; scissor jack; wood panel (mine was about a foot square); ratchet; 14mm
socket; ;long extension; U-joint.
View the photos
- Place the wood panel atop the scissor jack and
raise the jack so it supports the engine across the full area of the oil
pan (or sling the engine from above if a sling is available).
- Remove the coolant reservoir. Rest it in front of
the engine with the hose attached.
- Remove the reservoir seat using a ratchet,
extension, and 10mm socket.
- Remove the insulator pivot bolt using a ratchet and
- Re-check the jack supporting the engine. Slowly
remove the three engine attachment bolts and remove the mount with a
ratchet, extension, U-joint (for center bolt) and 14mm socket.
- Install the new mount only with the pivot bolt, but
do not tighten.
- If necessary to align the holes for the attachment
bolts, slightly lift the engine at a point on the air conditioning
compressor bracket using the floor jack.
- Install the three attachment bolts and tighten to
40 ft-lb. Tighten the pivot bolt to 40 ft-lb.
- Install the reservoir seat and reservoir.
- Remove the jacks, and you're done!
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- Rear Motor Mount
- This procedure requires about 2 hours. I performed it
alone in about 4 hours, taking extra time to fix bent components, repaint
the center member, and inspect the suspension.
- Tools and supplies: ramps or
jackstands; two jacks; wood blocks; ratchet; 14mm socket; 10mm socket; WD40
for easy bolt twisting.
View the photos before
- Put your car on ramps or jackstands (I used my
Tru-Cut Ultra Ramps).
- Open the hood so you get some light from above.
- Before proceeding, take the opportunity to inspect
the lower drivetrain and undercarriage, including all seals, boots,
fasteners, and things that can shake loose.
- Remove the front splash shields using a ratchet and
- Support the transmission with a jack and wood
blocks (or sling the engine from above).
- Loosen - don't remove - the pivot bolt connecting
the center of the mount insulator to its bracket on the lower support
beam. It's difficult to see. Use a 14mm socket, ratchet, and short
- Manual transmission only: remove the lower bolt
connecting the front buffer (the "dog bone") to the support
beam. Use a ratchet and 14mm socket.
- Remove the front two bolts and plastic sleeves
connecting the support beam to the frame, then the rear bolts and
sleeves. Use a ratchet and 14mm socket. Use an extension to reach the
rear bolts. The beam will hang from the mount.
- Taking weight off the beam, slide out the pivot
bolt from the mount and remove the beam.
- Remove the old mount from the beam using a ratchet
and 14mm socket.
- If needed, grind and re-paint the lower surface of
the support beam. Mine had been heavily scraped from several impacts
with road hazards (when I had Eibach springs).
- If needed (while the paint dries), flatten the
front mounting points for the beam. Mine had been mashed in from impacts
with parking barriers (when I had Eibach springs). Slide a pair of wide,
thick washers onto the threaded part of a mounting bolt, and SLOWLY
screw in the bolt until tight. Repeat once or twice for each hole. The
mounting point will be pulled flat to the frame.
- Install the new mount on the support beam and
tighten to 40 ft-lb.
- Lift the support beam into position with the second
jack. Install the mount pivot bolt but do not tighten.
- Lift the beam further until you can install the
front mounting bolts and sleeves. Lift the beam a bit more and install
the rear mounting bolts and sleeves. Tighten all four bolts to 40 ft-lb.
- Tighten the mount pivot bolt to 40 ft-lb.
- Manual transmission only: install the lower bolt
for the front buffer and tighten to 40 ft-lb.
- Install the splash shields.
- Remove the jacks, lower the car, and you're done!
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Rick's SE-Rious Procedures
Original material is the creation of Rick
Zotz, 1999, 1998, 1997, and has been contributed to SE-R.net.