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Variable Intermittent Wiper conversion

for 200SX (should work for all models) by Bryant Woo

I just modified my fixed intermittent wipers to variable intermittent (a feature which I find to be convenient when driving through fog - go figure. . . fog light mod and now this mod). It's amazing how fewer and fewer cars seem to have this feature available. I can remember my old '85 Sentra having this nicety. Nowadays it's only available on certain Trucks/Pathfinders, top-of-the-line model Altimas and 240SX's, and of course the Maxima. But I digress. . .

The pause between swipes can now be adjusted between 3 and 13 seconds. I retained the factory look (by using factory parts) for the wiper switch.

Here's how to do the mod:

First, you'll have to order two parts that are used by a 1995 240 SX SE (It has to be the SE model because that's the one with variable intermittent).

  • 28510-70F00 - Wiper Amplifier Assembly ($37)
  • 25260-1E400 - Wiper Switch ($34)

A wiper amplifier assembly from a late model Truck/Pathfinder with variable intermittent wipers will probably work too, but I don't have a service manual for those vehicles to figure out the wiring. These prices are from www.nissanautoparts.com which is about the same price as I got from Courtesy Nissan. FYI, Altimas and Maximas do not use a wiper amplifier assembly. They have their wiring connecting to a "Time Control Unit" which also controls other luxury features like the dome light, etc.

Let's get the color coding straight for the wiring:

L Blue
Y Yellow
LG Light Green
R Red
B Black
P Pink
BR Brown
OR Orange

REPLACING THE WIPER SWITCH:

  1. Remove the 4 screws on the bottom of the steering column cover.
  2. Separate the two halves of the steering column cover and remove the two covers along with the plastic ignition keyhole frame.
  3. Remove the two screws holding the existing switch in place.
  4. Slide the switch out and disconnect the electrical connector.

Looking at the connector, these are the wires you'll see: 

               -----
               :   :
---------------------------------------
: EMPTY #1  EMPTY #2  LG/B      LG/R  :
: P         B         L/Y       BR    :
---------------------------------------
  1. You'll have to connect approximately 8' of 14 gauge wire to each of the pins ON THE REPLACEMENT SWITCH corresponding to "EMPTY" slots on the connector. You can do this either by finding the correct size female connector that will slide onto the pins on the switch, or you can carefully solder the wires onto the pins directly. 6) Drill out the "EMPTY" slots on the connector until the wire (or female connector) can slide through the connector. Reattach the connector onto the new switch and reattach the switch onto the steering column. 7) Pull the two wires corresponding to EMPTY #1 and EMPTY #2 to the location of the wiper amplifier (see below). 8) Reinstall the steering column covers and ignition keyhole frame.

REPLACING THE WIPER AMPLIFIER:

  1. Remove the 6 screws holding the glove box and remove the glove box.
  2. The wiper amplifier is located near where the passenger's right foot would be. Remove the nut holding the amplifier. Cut the 6 wires connecting to the amplifier about 1" away from the connector. (This way you can reconnect the old amplifier someday) Remove the old amplifier and connector.
  3. There are 8 wires that connect to the new amplifier (BR, L/Y, P, OR, LG, B, EMPTY #1, and EMPTY #2), but on the new wiper amplifier, there are only 7 pins. Here's how those 8 wires should be connected to the new amplifier:

(Looking at the wiper amplifier's socket) 

                  -----
                  :   :
------------------------------------------
: L/Y     EMPTY #1                 BR    :
: P       LG          B+EMPTY #2   OR    :
------------------------------------------

Hints to step #3:

Just like in Step #5 with the wiper switch install, I couldn't find the right size female connector that would fit onto the pins of the wiper amplifier. So what I did was take apart the wiper amplifier and soldered 5" of 12 gauge wire onto each of the pins. I then drilled the holes to the pins on the socket cover so that the wires could slide through when I reassembled the amplifier. You can then connect all of the wires together (corresponding to the correct pin) by either soldering or by using crimps.

You may (although I didn't) want to use longer wire lengths to place the amplifier in the engine bay. When the wiper is in the intermittent mode, you can hear the clicking from the relay inside the amplifier. If this is annoying to you, then put it somewhere where you can't hear it. The bad part about the engine bay is that the makeshift connections you made are more susceptible to heat, moisture, etc.

  1. Wrap the amplifier using some thin foam and then just stuff it where the old amplifier used to be. The foam will dampen any rattling.
  2. Check all your connections/insulation. Reinstall the glove box and you're done!

Enjoy the mod!