DeHaven's Turbo Sentra SE-R Project
INSTALLING A TURBO ON A
I Installed the Turbo on my 92 SE-R I hope this page answers a lot of your questions on turbo
charging a SE-R THANKS TO ALL THAT HELP ME GET MY
Parts: Manifold = Nismo (off the Pulsar GTi-R)
or a Custom one
These steps can be done in
any order, I Just put them down as I thought of them. DO FIRST!
Down Pipe = Nismo (off the Pulsar GTi-R) or a Custom one
Turbo = There are Great Deal of them out there find one that you are looking for...
if you use the Nismo Manifold it has a T25 Flange, if you don't want to cut it off you can
use the T25 or a T28 Turbo
= 370 cc injectors are good if you not going to change the compression... Bigger than 370
cc injectors will require a new fuel rail, unless you get the Nismo Injectors which
cost a little.
= JWT is the only one I know that has a Turbo ECU for the SE-R
Lines = Stock off the Pulsar GTi-R (JWT Has theses) or Custom (this is what i did)
Piping = Muffler Shop (most can do Dimple bend, there is a few can do
Remote Battery Kit = Mr. Gasket is the one I used, But there are a Bunch of
these out there.
I am not responsible if you mess up your car from this! This is
a little guide to help you! Get more information before you start!!
TURNING THE TURBO
- Remove the old Exhaust manifold and Down
- Remove the battery and install it in the
- Remove the the tube that connects to the
stock down pipe.
- Remove the fan that is on the passenger
INSTALLING THE INTERCOOLER
- I had to rotate the turbo housing.
- Unbolt the 4 bolts that are on the Exhaust housing , don't
remove them all the way,if you have a used turbo you might have to tap it to free it so
you can turn it.
- Remove the Ring that is around the compressor housing
- Oil In and the Oil return need to be up and down like
12 and 6. you can change this a little by 10 Degrees to 15 degrees but no more, if you use
the Return line that is from the GTi-R you will have to rotate it a little.
- I had to rotate the Compressor housing so it was not
pointed toward the block.
- Make sure that you get the Snap ring back in good (if you
have one on the turbo) if you don't the compressor housing could come off!
OIL RETURN LINE
- If you are going to use the conquest intercooler it is
- You have to change one of the Tubes that come off the
intercooler the Short one so it is no pointed out. kinda like the top one.
- This has to get TIG welded.
- You will need to take off the Metal bumper and Cut out
about 2 to 3 feet. if you have a Friend with a Cutting tourch take no time, but there is
little Braces in the middle of it so it might take some time if you try to cut it will a
- You will also need to cut the Plastic bumper but not 2 or 3
You will need to cut the Little brace that is from the Hood latch to the
Bottom of the radiator.
- Remove the Oil Pans, yes there is two of
- You will need to remove the the plastic
covers that covers the Belts to get to the bolts on the Second oil pan easier.
- Drill a Small hole where there is a Flat
spot on the Block, it is left of the motor mount, the flat spot is about the size of a
- Drill a Bigger hole till you get it big
enough, I think the tap you need is 1/2". To be sure take the Bolt with you
when you buy the tap. When you get the tap it will tell you what size of hole to
- Clean all the Shavings off. put the oil
pans back on, you will need new gasket material which can be bought anywhere.
- You will need to tap off the sending unit, which is close
to the Firewall, you can get to it from under the car. you need an 8th pipe T fitting.
- The 8th pipe fitting will not be the right size because it
is a tapered fitting, but you can work it in, This is what i did.
- I used BeandaFlex Line 1/4 inch, it is a Hydraulic brake
line, I used 40 inches, bend it from the T Fitting to the Turbo, I bent it off the Turbo
towards the block, then down, then back up after the axle, to the T Fitting
- You will need a 8th pipe fitting adapter to Connect to the
- There is a Nipple on one of the Water lines that are go in
to the firewall, this is where I taped off of, I used 5 or 4 feet of 1/4 inch Fuel line.
- You will need a adapter to hook into the turbo I am not
Sure what it is (will find out)
- I ran the Line from the Nipple to the back of the Turbo.
- I taped into the thermostat housing for this. Remove the
thermostat Housing off the Car first!
- I used 20 inches of BendaFlex 1/4 inch
- I bent this from the from the front of the turbo to the
- I think you need a 8th pipe fitting to connect to the 1/4
BendaFlex line, then a bigger fitting to go into the side of the Turbo.
- I taped this on the Top of the Flat Square.
- I Put a 1/4 inch to a 8th pipe fitting on here to get a
Good seal on the BendaFlex
- You will need a 8th Pipe tap ( i needed a Compressed Tap
but they gave me the regular, so make sure you know what you need)
- If you take it to a Good Muffler shop, they should not have
a Problem installing the tubes.
- I used Stick hose to connect the pipes together.
- I Had one Pipe go to the intercooler by the light, and the
other off the intercooler go down then come up where there the old air resonator box was.
INSTALLING THE TURBO
- If you use the Turbo I used off the Siliva, you will have
to extend the Wastgate Rod. you have to extend it about 4.5 to 5 inches, Check to see what
it is. It is much easier to know some one who can weld and do it for you.
- I Mounted the wastgate to one of the bolts that hold the
Tranny to the block.
- You will need a 1/8 Vacuum line to connect to the wastgate
to a Vacuum line near the TB.
- After getting the Turbo turned how you want it, put it all
back together (if you have not done so) mount the little down pipe to the turbo, mount the
Turbo to the Manifold, put the Oil Drain pipe on the Turbo.
- To put it in the Car, you might have to remove one of the
fans which i did, while you are putting it in the car hook up the Water and
- If you are using the Nismo Manifold, you will have to pull
the A/C tube or what ever it is back when you try to get it in, because you will not be
able to get the Manifold over to the far bolt that is on the passenger side.
- Bolt the Manifold to the block, Hook up the Water Return,
and the oil return,I put Teflon tape around all the fittings to get a good seal.
- Check to make sure that all the lines are hooked up,
- MAKE SURE YOU PUT OIL AND WATER BACK IN THE
- You should be able to start the car now, check to see if
you have any leaks. if no leaks you ready to go to the muffler Shop to hook it up!
PREPARING THE CAR TO TAKE IT TO THE
- You will need to extend the Wires on the O2
Sensor because it will be much lower
- If your going to use the Nismo Downpipe.
You will need to take the O2 fitting off the stock downpipe.
Doing all of this will make it easier for the Muffler shop able to do there work, and A
faster turn around.
- Remove the Grill
- Remove the Drivers Side headlight if you
going to run a pipe there
- Remove the plastic cover that is around the
Drivers side Wheel
You will need to change the Spark
Plug Gaps stock is like .45 I changed mine to .25. Before the change I could not run more
than 7psi, but now I have hit 11psi!
Parts that I used and Prices
If you need anymore info about it E-Mail me at D...@Acelink.Net