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Matt DeHaven's Turbo Sentra SE-R Project


Online Instructions By: MRD

I Installed the Turbo on my 92 SE-R I hope this page answers a lot of your questions on turbo charging a SE-R THANKS TO ALL THAT HELP ME GET MY TURBO ON!

Parts: Manifold  = Nismo (off the Pulsar GTi-R) or a Custom one

         Down Pipe = Nismo (off the Pulsar GTi-R) or a Custom one

        Turbo = There are Great Deal of them out there find one that you are looking for... if you use the Nismo Manifold it has a T25 Flange, if you don't want to cut it off you can use the T25 or a T28 Turbo

        Injectors = 370 cc injectors are good if you not going to change the compression... Bigger than 370 cc  injectors will require a new fuel rail, unless you get the Nismo Injectors which cost a little.

        ECU = JWT is the only one I know that has a Turbo ECU for the SE-R

        Lines = Stock off the Pulsar GTi-R (JWT Has theses) or Custom (this is what i did)

        Piping = Muffler Shop (most can do Dimple bend, there is  a few can do Mandrel)

        Remote Battery Kit = Mr. Gasket is the one I used, But  there are a Bunch of these out there.

        I am not responsible if you mess up your car from this! This is a little guide to help you! Get more information before you start!!

  These steps can be done in any order, I Just put them down as I thought of them.   DO FIRST!

  1. Remove the old Exhaust manifold and Down pipe
  2. Remove the battery and install it in the Trunk
  3. Remove the the tube that connects to the stock down pipe.
  4. Remove the fan that is on the passenger side


  1. I had to rotate the turbo housing.
  2. Unbolt the 4 bolts that are on the Exhaust housing , don't remove them all the way,if you have a used turbo you might have to tap it to free it so you can turn it.
  3. Remove the Ring that is around the compressor housing
  4. Oil In and the Oil return need to be up and down  like 12 and 6. you can change this a little by 10 Degrees to 15 degrees but no more, if you use the Return line that is from the GTi-R  you will have to rotate it a little.
  5. I had to rotate the Compressor housing so it was not pointed toward the block.
  6. Make sure that you get the Snap ring back in good (if you have one on the turbo) if you don't the compressor housing could come off!


  1. If you are going to use the conquest intercooler it is Front mounted.
  2. You have to change one of the Tubes that come off the intercooler the Short one so it is no pointed out. kinda like the top one.
  3. This has to get TIG welded.
  4. You will need to take off the Metal bumper and Cut out about 2 to 3 feet. if you have a Friend with a Cutting tourch take no time, but there is little Braces in the middle of it so it might take some time if you try to cut it will a Saw!
  5. You will also need to cut the Plastic bumper but not 2 or 3 feet.

  6. You will need to cut the Little brace that is from the Hood latch to the Bottom of the radiator.


  1. Remove the Oil Pans, yes there is two of them.
  2. You will need to remove the the plastic covers that covers the Belts to get to the bolts on the Second oil pan easier.
  3. Drill a Small hole where there is a Flat spot on the Block, it is left of the motor mount, the flat spot is about the size of a quarter.
  4. Drill a Bigger hole till you get it big enough, I think the tap you need is  1/2". To be sure take the Bolt with you when you buy the tap.  When you get the tap it will tell you what size of hole to drill.
  5. Clean all the Shavings off. put the oil pans back on, you will need new gasket material which can be bought anywhere.


  1. You will need to tap off the sending unit, which is close to the Firewall, you can get to it from under the car. you need an 8th pipe T fitting.
  2. The 8th pipe fitting will not be the right size because it is a tapered fitting, but you can work it in, This is what i did.
  3. I used BeandaFlex Line 1/4 inch, it is a Hydraulic brake line, I used 40 inches, bend it from the T Fitting to the Turbo, I bent it off the Turbo towards the block, then down, then back up after the axle, to the T Fitting
  4. You will need a 8th pipe fitting adapter to Connect to the T.


  1. There is a Nipple on one of the Water lines that are go in to the firewall, this is where I taped off of, I used 5 or 4 feet of 1/4 inch Fuel line.
  2. You will need a adapter to hook into the turbo I am not Sure what it is (will find out)
  3. I ran the Line from the Nipple to the back of the Turbo.


  1. I taped into the thermostat housing for this. Remove the thermostat Housing off the Car first!
  2. I used 20 inches of  BendaFlex 1/4 inch
  3. I bent this from the from the front of the turbo to the thermostat
  4. I think you need a 8th pipe fitting to connect to the 1/4 BendaFlex line, then a bigger fitting to go into the side of the Turbo.
  5. I taped this on the Top of the Flat Square.
  6. I Put a 1/4 inch to a 8th pipe fitting on here to get a Good seal on the BendaFlex
  7. You will need a 8th Pipe tap ( i needed a Compressed Tap but they gave me the regular, so make sure you know what you need)


  1. If you take it to a Good Muffler shop, they should not have a Problem installing the tubes.
  2. I used Stick hose to connect the pipes together.
  3. I Had one Pipe go to the intercooler by the light, and the other off the intercooler go down then come up where there the old air resonator box was.


  1. If you use the Turbo I used off the Siliva, you will have to extend the Wastgate Rod. you have to extend it about 4.5 to 5 inches, Check to see what it is. It is much easier to know some one who can weld and do it for you.
  2. I Mounted the wastgate to one of the bolts that hold the Tranny to the block.
  3. You will need a 1/8 Vacuum line to connect to the wastgate to a Vacuum line near the TB.


  1. After getting the Turbo turned how you want it, put it all back together (if you have not done so) mount the little down pipe to the turbo, mount the Turbo to the Manifold, put the Oil Drain pipe on the Turbo.
  2. To put it in the Car, you might have to remove one of the fans which i did,   while you are putting it in the car hook up the Water and oil lines.
  3. If you are using the Nismo Manifold, you will have to pull the A/C tube or what ever it is back when you try to get it in, because you will not be able to get the Manifold over to the far bolt that is on the passenger side.
  4. Bolt the Manifold to the block, Hook up the Water Return, and the oil return,I put Teflon tape around all the fittings to get a good seal.
  5. Check to make sure that all the lines are hooked up,
  7. You should be able to start the car now, check to see if you have any leaks. if no leaks you ready to go to the muffler Shop to hook it up!


  1. You will need to extend the Wires on the O2 Sensor because it will be much lower
  2. If your going to use the Nismo Downpipe. You will need to take the O2 fitting off the stock downpipe.


  1. Remove the Grill
  2. Remove the Drivers Side headlight if you going to run a pipe there
  3. Remove the plastic cover that is around the Drivers side Wheel

        Doing all of this will make it easier for the Muffler shop able to do there work, and A faster turn around.

You will need to change the Spark Plug Gaps stock is like .45 I changed mine to .25. Before the change I could not run more than 7psi, but now I have hit 11psi!

                          Parts that I used and Prices 

If you need anymore info about it E-Mail me at D...@Acelink.Net